What to Eat Driving the NC500 Anti-Clockwise
The anti-clockwise NC500 route takes you north out of Inverness along the east coast, across the top of Scotland through Caithness and Sutherland, and then down the dramatic north-west coast before looping back to Inverness. It's a circular route of around 500 miles, and depending on how many days you're taking, it's a mix of long driving days, stunning detours, and the occasional scramble to find somewhere to eat before everything closes.
This is a practical guide to the coffee and food stops worth knowing about, in the order you'll encounter them. We run Crofter's Kitchen above Scourie Beach in Sutherland. We're on the north-west stretch, which is the last big leg before you head back south, and we'll be honest about where to stop before you get to us, as well as why we think we're worth saving your appetite for.
Inverness — before you leave
Sort yourself out in Inverness before you go. Fill the tank, stock up on supplies, have breakfast somewhere decent. Once you're on the A9 heading north, the options will begin to thin out.
Petrol: Fill up in Inverness. There are stations on the route, but they become less frequent the further north and west you go. There is a petrol station in Scourie on the north-west stretch — useful to know if you're running low by the time you reach us — but don't rely on finding fuel whenever you need it. Check your gauge before every significant leg and fill when you can.
Inverness to Dornoch — the east coast start
The east coast leg out of Inverness is the most straightforward stretch of the route — the A9 is a proper road and the landscape, while pleasant, is gentler than what's coming. Use this stretch to ease in.
Dornoch is an early stop worth making. The town has a cathedral, a good beach, and a few decent cafés. Cocoa Mountain has a location here as well as Durness. Good coffee and exceptional hot chocolate if the weather has turned cold. A solid first stop of the trip.
Dornoch to Wick and Thurso — the far north-east
This is a long stretch with some worthwhile detours. Dunrobin Castle is worth a stop if you're doing the route over several days. Wick and Thurso are the main towns on the north coast.
In Thurso, there are several cafés and bakeries for a coffee and cake stop. Nothing that demands a special detour, but useful if you're breaking the drive.
The Captain's Galley in Scrabster, just outside Thurso, is a great seafood restaurant on the north coast and worth booking ahead if you're spending a night in the area.
Thurso to Durness — across the top
The north coast road from Thurso west towards Durness is one of the most exposed and dramatic stretches of the whole route. The NC500 signage takes you along the A836 — past Tongue, through Bettyhill, and out towards Durness.
Tongue — the Ben Loyal Hotel is a reliable stop for coffee and a break, with the Kyle of Tongue as the backdrop. The drive over the causeway here is one of the quiet highlights of the north coast leg.
Bettyhill has a small café that's useful for a comfort stop. Nothing more than that, but the beach at Bettyhill is worth five minutes of your time, regardless.
Durness — go to Cocoa Mountain at Balnakeil Craft Village, just outside the village. This is the original location, and it's the right place to stop at the turning point of the route. The hot chocolate is made with real chocolate — thick, rich, nothing like the powder-and-water version you get everywhere else. The truffles are worth taking with you. Sit down, drink something warm, and look at where you are. You're at the top-left corner of mainland Scotland. The next stop is the north-west coast heading south.
Durness to Scourie — the north-west stretch begins
The road south from Durness along the A894 is where the character of the trip changes. The landscape gets more dramatic — sea lochs, white sand beaches, moorland, the occasional glimpse of Handa Island offshore. There's almost nothing in terms of food stops between Durness and Scourie. This is intentional on the part of the landscape, not an oversight.
Scourie — Crofter's Kitchen
This is where we'd suggest you save your appetite. Crofter's Kitchen is above Scourie Beach, on the left as you follow the signs down to the bay. We're the big meal of the north-west leg.
Our menu is built entirely around what's been landed within 30 miles of the croft. Scallops hand-dived by Adam off Handa Island. Lobster and langoustines from Paul and Sandy's creels in Badcall Bay. Crab from Kylesku. Oysters from Patrick and Lucy at Bow, near Durness. Lamb from Elphin. Venison from Inchnadamph. Every item on the menu has a supplier name and a location — nothing is anonymous, nothing has travelled far.
Grant cooks it simply, because the ingredients don't need anything more than that. The scallops come with minimal interference. The langoustines are butter and garlic. The lobster is split and grilled. When the produce is this fresh and this local, restraint is the right approach.
The restaurant is a converted shipping container that opened in April 2026. Sheepskins on every seat, reclaimed timber walls, porthole artwork by Scourie artist Sheilah Cunningham, and a floor-to-ceiling window looking out over the croft and the moorland. It's warm, it's properly fitted out, and it doesn't look like anywhere else on the route.
We won Scotland's Best Street Food at the Scotsman Scran Awards 2025. We hold a 4.9 on Google across 500+ reviews and are TripAdvisor #1 in Scourie.
Open Monday to Saturday, noon to 7pm, late March to October. No booking required. Croft 17, Scouriemore, IV27 4TG. Get directions.
There is a petrol station in Scourie village — worth filling up here before continuing south if you need it.
Scourie to Ullapool — the final stretch south
The road south from Scourie through Lochinver and back to Ullapool is another long stretch of spectacular coastal driving with limited food options.
Lochinver is a worthwhile little break. The Lochinver Larder is known for its pies — straightforward, filling, good for eating in the car if you're pushing on. The village has a harbour and a small Spar shop.
Ullapool is the last significant town before Inverness and a natural stop for coffee, supplies, or a final meal before the route ends. The Seafood Shack is good if it's open when you pass — haddock wrap, simply done. The Ceilidh Place is a good option for coffee and cake in an indoor setting.
Practical notes
Petrol and diesel: Fill up before you leave Inverness. There is a petrol station in Scourie. Don't assume you'll find fuel when you need it on the remote stretches — the north coast and north-west can leave you with very few options if you leave it too late.
Opening hours: Change in shoulder season. Check social media on the morning you're travelling for anything on the north-west stretch, including us. We post updates on Instagram and Facebook if anything changes.
Crofter's Kitchen, Croft 17, Scouriemore, IV27 4TG. Open Monday to Saturday, noon to 7pm, late March to October.